Trip to Namibia, 2009

In 2008, I had a conversation about travel and was asked: if you had a ticket to go anywhere in the world, where would it be? I took a deep breath, thought for a few seconds, and then said: Namibia. And just like that, Namibia became my next journey.

Since some airports are less reliable than others when it comes to lost luggage, all our belongings had to fit in carry-on bags. In the end, I had as much weight in clothes as in my photography gear: 8 kilos each. At that time, I had an APS-C camera, a 17-40mm, a 24-105mm, a 50mm, and a circular polarizing filter. For this trip, I borrowed a full-frame camera, a 70-200mm with a 1.4x extender, and left the APS-C camera at home.

After a long Paris-Munich-Johannesburg-Windhoek flight, Namibia finally opened its doors.

The first stop was in Windhoek city, mainly for convenience, as it was already late in the afternoon after picking up the car. Following repeated advice, a pack of water was bought and left in the trunk, in case of an issue with the car far from a city, ensuring survival if help took many hours to arrive.

The next morning, we left the capital and headed toward the Kalahari Anib Lodge, where our first photo safari awaited. The sense of the vastness of the landscape, with its long, straight roads, became apparent almost immediately.

First Steps in Namibia
First photo stop on the B1
Y Pylon
Wildbeasts
Fleeing Ostriches
Weaver Bird Nest

After enduring a cold night in the Kalahari during the peak of winter, this day was dedicated to visiting the Quiver Tree Forest and the Giant’s Playground just nearby, then moving closer to the Fish River Canyon, which was on the agenda for the following day.

Driving in Namibia
Railway in the middle of nowhere
Quiver Tree
Water facility
Cape Hyrax (Daman du Cap) at the Giant Playground
Giant Playground (1)
Giant Playground (2)
Giant Playground (3)
Quiver Tree (2)
Canyon Roadhouse (1)

The day’s itinerary involved an exploration of both the Fish River Canyon and the Ai-Ais Hot Springs, two of Namibia’s natural wonders. The adventure commenced at the Fish River Canyon, Africa’s largest canyon, with expansive views showcasing deep ravines and rugged rock formations shaped over millions of years. Later in the day, the journey continued to the Ai-Ais Hot Springs, located at the southern end of the canyon. Here, the mineral-rich thermal waters, known for their soothing properties, provided a perfect counterbalance to the morning’s activities. Notably, the tracks were remarkably flat, comparable to an airfield, allowing for driving speeds of up to 110 km/h without difficulty.

Canyon Roadhouse (2)
Canyon Roadhouse (4)
Canyon Roadhouse (3)
Canyon Roadhouse (6)
Canyon Roadhouse (5)
Fish River Canyon, Namibia
Sulfurus Springs of Ai-Ais
Abandonned Rusted Car (1), Namibia
Abandonned Rusted Car (2), Namibia

That night back at the hotel, guests and servers joined together in a toast to Nelson Mandela’s birthday, who was then 81 years old.

The day served mainly as a transfer stage to Aus, but once arrived, the sights were truly breathtaking.

Near Aus
Abandonned Car, near Aus, Namibia

This served mainly as a transfer stage to the base, but once arrived in Aus, the sights were truly breathtaking.

Landscape near Aus (1)
Landscape near Aus (2)
Landscape near Aus at Sunset (2)
Landscape near Aus at Sunset (1)

Without a tripod on this trip to Namibia, I wasn’t able to capture any photos of the Milky Way. This day I spent long minutes watching the most astonishing night sky I had ever seen.

This stage was the longest of the day in terms of time, with stretches of track that were extremely rocky. Its main purpose was to get closer to Namib Desert planned for the day after. 150km were driven without encountering anyone.

Leaving Aus
1 hour and a half without meeting anyone

On our way to Desert Homestead a short detour was made to see this strange building in the desert build in 1909 when Namibia was a German colony. It makes an interesting stop for those heading to the Namib-Naukluft National Park or further south in Namibia.

Duwisib Castle

And this day, I made one of my finest photo ever! It is a very good example of how handy a telezoom lens can be for landscape purposes.

3 Trees, Namibia

Finally this wonderful sunset was a good surprise when arrived at destination.

Sunset at Desert Homestead
Sunset, Desert Homestead

Sossusvlei, is renowned for its breathtaking red sand dunes and surreal landscapes. The Namib, often considered the world’s oldest desert, is towered by dunes, some of which reach over 300 meters in height, making them among the tallest on Earth. Vivid orange dunes contrast against the deep blue sky, especially at sunrise and sunset. You can avoid going to the Sesriem Canyon if you have only one day to spend in this place to focus on what matters most.

Sesriem Canyon
Near Dune 45
Dry ground, Dead Vlei
Dunes
Dead Tree, Sossusvlei
Sossulvlei, Namibia
Sossusvlei (2)
Dune at sunset

Journey to reach the city of Swakopmund. It’s a charming coastal town, known for its distinct mix of German colonial architecture and modern African culture. It features a unique blend of historical buildings, colorful facades, and wide palm-lined streets, reflecting its German heritage. The cool, coastal climate provides a refreshing break from the arid inland, making it a favored holiday spot for both locals and tourists. Rich in culture, history, and natural beauty, Swakopmund is often described as a gateway to explore Namibia’s diverse landscapes.

Halt on C14 around 23.308°S, 15.490°E
X Pylons
Swakopmund
Swakopmund (2)
Swakopmund (4)
Swakopmund (3)
Swakopmund (5)
Swakopmund (6)

Day’s itinerary: first, explore the Philips Cave, known for its ancient rock art and unique geological formations, and then continue further along the D1937 to visit the Giant Boulders, an impressive natural site featuring enormous rock formations scattered across the landscape.

Grosse Spitzkoppe
Philips Cave
Painting of an Elephant – Philips Cave
Paintings – Philips Cave
Giant Boulders – Spitzkoppe mountain (1)
Elephant Rock
Giant Boulders – Spitzkoppe mountain (2)
Elephant Rock

With Etosha being the next major stop, a lodge had to be found between Swakopmund and the nature reserve to break up the journey. Thus, by first following the Skeleton Coast before heading inland, the wreck of the Zeila offered a rather surprising break. The ship was sold in 2008 sold for scrap; it broke free from its towing line and ended up stranded on the coast. The Skeleton Coast is infamous for its treacherous waters and dense fog, which have caused many ships to wreck over the centuries. The Zeila has also become a popular spot for birdlife, with cormorants and other seabirds often seen perching on the rusted remains.

Zeila Shipwreck
Careful planner and tender wife taking pictures in the middle of nowhere
Small Lezard, Mowani Mountain Camp
Brandberg Mountain
Sunset at the Mowani Mountain Camp

The first place visited was Twyfelfountain. Located in the arid Kunene region of Namibia, it is one of the country’s most iconic archaeological sites. Known for its impressive collection of ancient rock engravings, it is estimated that these petroglyphs were created by the San people over 2,000 years ago. The site features over 2,500 engravings depicting animals like giraffes, lions, and rhinos, as well as geometric patterns.The area is today a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offering a glimpse into the prehistoric cultures of Southern Africa amidst its striking red sandstone landscapes.

Engravings, Twyfelfountain (1)
Organ Pipes, Twyfelfontein (1)
Organ Pipes, Twyfelfontein (2)
Engravings, Twyfelfountain (2)
Engravings, Twyfelfountain (3)

After this visit, the course was set for Etosha, which was reached in the middle of the afternoon.

Zebra mother and her foal
Lone Wildbeast, Etosha
Two Male Giraffes Fighting
Rhino at Night at the Okaukuejo Waterhole

Etosha National Park, is one of Africa’s premier wildlife destinations. It is centered around the vast Etosha Pan, a salt flat that fills with water during the rainy season, attracting large herds of animals. The park is home to an incredible variety of wildlife, including elephants, lions, rhinos, and hundreds of bird species. Its diverse ecosystems, ranging from grasslands to savannahs, provide unique opportunities for game viewing, especially at the numerous waterholes where animals gather.

Blacked-faced Impala, Etosha
Jackal, Etosha
Elephants, Etosha
Kori Bustard, Etosha
Greater Kudu, Etosha
Giraffe Walking, Etosha
Lone Tree, Etosha

Farewell day to Etosha with a few more animals captured with my camera, and a journey to a town near Windhoek to catch the flight the next day.

Oryx near a water source, Etosha
Giraphs, Etosha
Kori Bustard, Etosha
Young Springbok, Etosha
Greater Kudus and Great Egrets, Etosha
Lilac-Breasted Roller, Etosha
Yellow Billed Hornbill, Etosha
Stampeding Wildbeasts, Etosha

Last day in Namibia: a journey to the airport to return the rental car, marking the end of this incredible adventure. After returning the car, it was time to board the flight and head back to France, with memories of vast landscapes, unique wildlife, and unforgettable experiences.

One regret from that trip was not having enough storage to shoot all my photos in RAW format, which would have provided better image quality for post-processing. As a result, most of the photos shown here come from the in-camera JPEGs. At the time, a 16GB CompactFlash card cost around 100€, and I had just invested in a 24-105mm lens. Combined with the overall expense of the journey, my budget for additional storage was limited. This forced me to be selective with my shots, reviewing them each evening and deleting the obvious failed ones to free up space on the memory card.

Here are a few numbers about this journey:

  • 2330 photos taken, around 350 deleted on-site (1.8GB freed).
  • At least 4000 km traveled, about half of it on dirt roads.
  • We only traveled during daylight hours, between 8 AM and 6 PM.
  • This means one photo every 1.7 km or every 3 minutes and 6 seconds.
LensPhotos
17-40252
24-105643
5037
70-200141
70-200 + TC 1.4x836

This trip was a kind of revelation. I had always thought I was inclined towards wide-angle photography and that I would only use short telephoto lenses for portraits. I had never done these statistics before writing this article, and now I understand better why I bought a 100-400mm lens before heading to South Africa a few years later.

This first independent journey to Africa was an unforgettable experience: I was completely captivated by the vast, sprawling landscapes that seemed impossible to fully capture in photographs. The immense beauty of these sceneries, from endless deserts to stunning coastlines, was something that photos simply couldn’t do justice to. The experience left me eager to embark on more adventures of this kind, exploring new places with the freedom and curiosity that made this journey so special.